Arctic exploration
Dead Reckoning
indigenous peoples
inuit
native peoples
northwest passage
adventure canada
Celtic Life International
Highland Clearances
Isle of Skye
Voyage around Scotland inspires Celtic Life spread on the Highland Clearances
August 28, 2018
On day four out of the resort town of Oban, we awoke to
find our expeditionary ship anchored in Isleornsay harbour off the Isle of
Skye. This was not a planned stop. Overnight, faced with southwesterly winds
gusting to 60 and 65 knots, the captain had taken the Ocean Endeavour north into the Sound of Sleat that runs between
Skye and the mainland. Here he had found shelter in one of the most protected
harbours on the east coast of Skye.
June 2018. We were circumnavigating
Scotland, my wife, Sheena, and I, with Adventure Canada. We had stopped in
Islay and would soon visit Iona, St. Kilda, Lewis, Shetland, Orkney. We were among roughly 200 passengers and I
was one of several resource people available to hold forth on matters of
historical interest. This surprise anchorage
drove me to my maps.
For the past few years, I had been researching
Scottish Highlanders who emigrated to Canada in the 18th and 19th
centuries. Some made the move of their own volition, but most were refugee
victims of the Highland Clearances. During one of those Clearances, I recalled,
a ship called the Sillery had anchored
here at Isleornsay harbour. It had arrived late in July 1853 to carry off farmers
who lived along the north shore of Loch Hourn, a broad inlet that enters the
mainland six or eight kilometres due east of Isleornsay. That area was part of
Knoydart in Glengarry.
I remembered wondering why the Sillery had not entered that inlet to reduce transport time. Now, onboard
experts suggested that strong westerly winds – not unusual in these parts –
would have made it difficult for any 19th-century sailing vessel to
emerge out of that inlet. That explained why the Sillery had anchored in this sheltered harbour and the captain had set
his crewmen to rowing across the sound.
Almost 100 years before that, in 1746, farmers from Knoydart
had been among the 600 Highlanders who followed Macdonell of Glengarry into the
catastrophe known as the Battle of Culloden. In the decades that followed, some
had emigrated to Upper Canada and others to Nova Scotia. Still, by 1847, more
than 600 people remained in the coastal settlements, though their numbers were then
reduced by the Great Famine. But activist-journalist Donald Ross, who collected
first-hand accounts of several Clearances, wrote that these crofters needed
only a little encouragement to resume thriving as farmers.
In 1852, however, the newly widowed Josephine Macdonell
gained control of the Knoydart estate. A Lowland industrialist named James
Baird – a Tory member of Parliament -- had expressed interest in acquiring her
lands, but only if they were unencumbered by paupers for whom he would become legally
responsible. Ignoring the people’s offers to pay arrears caused by the potato famine,
the widow Macdonell issued warnings of removal. “Those who imagine they will be
allowed to remain after this,” she wrote, “are indulging in a vain hope as the
most strident measures will be taken to effect their removal.”
In April 1853, she informed her tenants that they would be
going to Australia, sailing courtesy of the landlord-sponsored Highland and
Islands Emigration Society.
In June, she amended that: they would travel instead to Canada, their passage
paid as far as Montreal. On debarkation, they would each be given ten pounds of
oatmeal. After that, they were on their own.
On August 2, 1853, with the Sillery anchored at Isleornsay, men with axes, crowbars, and
hammers rowed across the inlet and landed. They joined a gang of mainlanders and
began clearing farmers from their homes. The factor in charge ordered that after removing the tenants, his men were immediately to
destroy “not only the houses of those who had left,” Donald Ross wrote, “but
also of those who had refused to go.”
Burly men ripped off thatched roofs, slammed picks into
walls and foundations, and chopped down any supporting trees or timbers.
Eventually, Ross wrote, “roof, rafters, and walls fell with a crash. Clouds of
dust rose to the skies, while men, women and children stood at a distance,
completely dismayed.” According to Ross, "The wail of the poor women and
children as they were torn away from their homes would have melted a heart of
stone."
(To read the rest, check out the October issue of Celtic Life International.)
Akademik Ioffe
Akademik Sergey Vavilov
arctic
Canadian coast guard
Clipper Adventurer
Kugaaruk
Grounding of expeditionary ship in the Arctic evokes memories but no worries
August 25, 2018
Sorry to hear that the Akademik Ioffe ran aground in the Arctic.
But the expeditionary cruise ship, on which I have sailed, has already been refloated.
The last time something like this happened, with the Clipper Adventurer back in 2010, we were on the ship, Sheena and I. It wasn't fun, obviously, but we were never in any real danger.
From what I have read, I don't believe the 160 or so people on the Ioffe are threatened in any way.
In 2010, our ship stayed grounded and we had to be rescued by the Canadian Coast Guard.
Given that the Ioffe has been refloated, and is reporting no hull breach, the ship will probably head to the nearest major port -- possibly Resolute.
A sister ship, the Akademik Sergey Vavilov, has been making its way to Kugaaruk, near where the ship slid onto a submerged shelf. It may already be there and taking on passengers from Ioffe.
Keep in mind that the Canadian Arctic is NOT like the Antarctic.
First, it is an archipelago of islands, which means land is never very far away.
The worst case scenario in 2010 would have found us bundled up in our cold-weather gear and zooming ashore in zodiacs to await the arrival on land of the coast guard. As it happened, the sun was shining and we waited, most of us, lounging on the top deck.
Second consideration: as in this case, other vessels are always within rescue distance.
The other concern is environmental damage. But given that the ship is floating again -- probably after discharging fresh drinking water to reduce weight -- the chances of that appear to be minimal.
Adventure tourism involving expeditionary vessels of this modest size brings important benefits to people who live in the Arctic.
But the expeditionary cruise ship, on which I have sailed, has already been refloated.
The last time something like this happened, with the Clipper Adventurer back in 2010, we were on the ship, Sheena and I. It wasn't fun, obviously, but we were never in any real danger.
From what I have read, I don't believe the 160 or so people on the Ioffe are threatened in any way.
In 2010, our ship stayed grounded and we had to be rescued by the Canadian Coast Guard.
Given that the Ioffe has been refloated, and is reporting no hull breach, the ship will probably head to the nearest major port -- possibly Resolute.
A sister ship, the Akademik Sergey Vavilov, has been making its way to Kugaaruk, near where the ship slid onto a submerged shelf. It may already be there and taking on passengers from Ioffe.
Keep in mind that the Canadian Arctic is NOT like the Antarctic.
First, it is an archipelago of islands, which means land is never very far away.
The worst case scenario in 2010 would have found us bundled up in our cold-weather gear and zooming ashore in zodiacs to await the arrival on land of the coast guard. As it happened, the sun was shining and we waited, most of us, lounging on the top deck.
Second consideration: as in this case, other vessels are always within rescue distance.
The other concern is environmental damage. But given that the ship is floating again -- probably after discharging fresh drinking water to reduce weight -- the chances of that appear to be minimal.
Adventure tourism involving expeditionary vessels of this modest size brings important benefits to people who live in the Arctic.
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Before turning mainly to books about arctic exploration and Canadian history, Ken McGoogan worked for two decades as a journalist at major dailies in Toronto, Calgary, and Montreal. He teaches creative nonfiction writing through the University of Toronto and in the MFA program at King’s College in Halifax. Ken served as chair of the Public Lending Right Commission, has written recently for Canada’s History, Canadian Geographic, and Maclean’s, and sails with Adventure Canada as a resource historian. Based in Toronto, he has given talks and presentations across Canada, from Dawson City to Dartmouth, and in places as different as Edinburgh, Melbourne, and Hobart.