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Showing posts with label John Rae. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Rae. Show all posts
Yo, Orkney! Skara Brae to Clestrain

Yo, Orkney! Skara Brae to Clestrain



People were living at Skara Brae before Egyptians built the pyramids. By the time other neolitithic folk started work on Stonehenge in England, they had resided here, facing out over the salt water, for three to four hundred years – and even had time to abandon the site. To stand here today, in the 21st century, gazing out at surf-worthy waves, proved both humbling and awe-inspiring. More than one person incidentally gave thanks that our expedition leader had decided we would overnight at the dock in Kirkwall, rather than plunge out into what would certainly have been one horrendous night on the water.
But what a place is Skara Brae – the best-preserved Neolithic village in northern Europe, and a site that offers an entree into the daily lives of people who lived 4,500 years ago. Here they cooked, there they ate, and here, just here, they curled up and slept. Today, as well, while rambling around with Adventure Canada, we visited the nearby Ring of Brodgar, a world-famous circle of standing stones, and passed by a recently begun archaeological dig between the two, the Ness of Brodgar, that points back even earlier, to the Mesolithic era of 7000 years ago, when hunter-gatherers roamed these hills.

Roll on to the Hall of Clestrain, which overlooks Hoy Sound near Stromness. Birthplace in 1813 of Arctic explorer John Rae, this listed building is now the focus of a restoration campaign led by the John Rae Society, which is determined to turn Clestrain into a world-heritage centre. Three buses shuttled passengers from one location to another, while other visitors rambled around Kirkwall, visiting St. Magnus Cathedral, which contains a gorgeous memorial to Rae, and also the explorer’s grave, situated behind this magnificent 12th century edifice.
Rumor had it that some travelers indulged in serious retail therapy, and suggestive evidence turned up in certain newly observed artifacts. Come evening, two Orcadians came aboard. Andrew Appleby, president of the John Rae Society and a professional potter from nearby Harray (the Harray Potter), invited people to visit his studio, where he throws pots. And native Orcadian historian Tom Muir, president of the Orkney Story-Teller’s Association, entertained with a series of entrancing tales that ranged from the dark and foreboding to the sublime and sorrowful. His was a tour de force performance.


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Ken McGoogan
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Arctic adventurers recreate trek to Rae Strait

Arctic adventurers recreate trek to Rae Strait


The Arctic Return Expedition is all systems go. A reconfigured four-man team will set out March 25, 2019 to recreate the most successful Arctic overland expedition of the 19th century. On his 1854 surveying adventure, accompanied by an Inuk and an Ojibway, Orcadian explorer John Rae discovered both the terrible fate of the lost Franklin expedition and the final link in the first navigable Northwest Passage.
Next March, veteran polar adventurer David Reid will lead an outstanding team in traveling 650 km overland from Naujaat (Repulse Bay) to Rae Strait, following in the footsteps of John Rae, William Ouligbuck Jr., and Thomas Mistegan. When personal considerations forced withdrawals, Reid rounded out his team with experienced, highly skilled adventurers.
The party now includes:
 n  Canadian adventurer Frank Wolf, named one of Canada’s top 100 explorers by Canadian Geographic Magazine in 2015. Wolf, the first to canoe across Canada in a single season, also cycled 2,000 km in winter on the Yukon River from Dawson to Nome. He has documented his adventurers in articles and films and recently published his first book, Lines on a Map (Rocky Mountain Books).
  n  Scottish adventurer Richard Smith, PhD, who studied as an astrophysicist, moved into Information Technology, and served with the Royal Marine Commandos and the Special Boat Service. Smith has climbed, trekked or kayaked in Alaska, Greenland, Nepal and the French Alps, and explored the jungles of Belize and the deserts of Oman.
  n  Adventure film-maker Garry Tutte, who created an educational web-series from Mt. Everest, documented a 7000 km car rally from England to Gambia across the Sahara Desert, and travelled from the remote islands of the Philippines to Hong Kong to create an award-winning film. In 2017, Tutte led the media team aboard the Canada C3 expedition as it circumnavigated the country’s 23,000 km coastline from Toronto to Victoria via the Northwest Passage.
  n  Reid himself, who lived on Baffin Island for 20 years and has led, organized or participated in more than 300 Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, trips and projects. In that time he has traveled thousands of miles by dog sled, ski, snowmobile, boat, kayak, ship, foot and most recently by bike, becoming the first person to cross Baffin Island by fat-tire bike.
The expedition is hoping to raise funds for the restoration of John Rae's birthplace, the Hall of Clestrain. The flagship sponsor is The Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS). The award-winning travel company Adventure Canada and Canada Goose are also lending major support. For more details check out the expedition website.


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Ken McGoogan
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Rock band Rhonda and the Cries for Help sing John Rae at the Hall of Clestrain

Rock band Rhonda and the Cries for Help sing John Rae at the Hall of Clestrain



The trouble began when Fran Flett Hollinrake, aka the Queen of St. Magnus Cathedral, asked in all innocence, "When's the new album coming out?" We could see what she meant. Tom Muir, Rhonda Muir, Sheena Fraser McGoogan and I had not yet settled on a name for our emerging rock band. But the Beach Boys sprang to mind and would you believe it? they were singing Help Me, Rhonda. So we became Rhonda and the Cries for Help. The photo is by Orkney's own John Welburn, a leading member of the John Rae Society. And if you have read this far, I know you want to catch one of the Cries for Help talking John Rae to Orkney News, filmed by Fiona Grahame. All you have to do is click this link:  https://youtu.be/CBHroVUU_uU.



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Ken McGoogan
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The Canadian Invasion of Scotland

The Canadian Invasion of Scotland


Canadian invasion forces have swept through the Dunfermline area north of Edinburgh, claiming Broomhall House.  This impressive mansion, located on a splendiferous, well-kept estate has been in the family of Robert the Bruce for more than 300 years. The Canadian connection comes via James Bruce, the eighth Earl of Elgin, who had his home here. In the late 1840s, as governor-general of Canada, he proved pivotal in introducing responsible government, a key step in Canada's emergence into independence. The taking of Broomhall House follows hard on earlier successes.  Canadians were able to claim Dalhousie Castle thanks to George Ramsay, the ninth Earl of Dalhousie, who spent more than a dozen years in Canada and established Dalhousie University in Halifax, modelling it after Edinburgh University. East of Edinburgh, the invaders claimed Ballencrief Castle, birthplace in 1721 of James Murray. He fathered the Quebec Act of 1774, which saved Canada from joining the rebel states in the American Revolution. The rebels judged it intolerable, this business of allowing French colonists to retain their language, laws, and religion. The Canadian invasion of central Scotland began in
Edinburgh with the taking of Abden House, where in 1862, Canadian politician George Brown met and fell in love with Anne Nelson. Their marriage proved transformative and enabled Brown to become a leading father of Confederation. Canadian forces had begun their all-inclusive campaign in Orkney at the Hall of Clestrain, birthplace of Arctic explorer John Rae, who joined the Hudson's Bay Company and discovered the final link in the first navigable Northwest Passage. In central Scotland, the taking of four landmark locations -- Broomhall, Dalhousie, Ballencrieff, and Abden -- suggests that the Canadian invaders will soon turn their attention to the Highlands.
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Ken McGoogan
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Braving storms in search of John Rae

Braving storms in search of John Rae




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What was he thinking, explorer John Rae, when he built a stone house in the High Arctic? He hired local Inuit to use their dogs to bring him big rocks. This was at Repulse Bay in 1846 with winter coming on. He got the house finished, a big room for the men and, because he did not smoke, a smaller one for him. With temperatures plummeting, he named the place Fort Hope.
What was he thinking? He was thinking of home, of growing up in Orkney, of riding out from the Hall of Clestrain with his musket to hunt for hare, and for curlews and grouse and lapwing.  He was thinking of one place in particular, a stone-built house near his favourite hunting spot in the rolling hills, where because of the distance from home, roughly fifteen miles, he would sometimes ask and receive permission to stay overnight.
This afternoon, on Orkney's Mainland, four of us visited the ruins of that stone house: me and Sheena and historian Tom Muir, our sortie led by Andrew Appleby, president of the John Rae Society. The house is located at Cottascarth in the Harray district, directly behind the Eddie Balfour Hen Harrier Hide – a bird-watching sanctuary.
Rae would have seen many such houses, of course. But this was the one where, according to local lore, he stayed more than once. And, though we have no documentary evidence, this was almost certainly the one that sprang to his mind when he needed to build a shelter. The style of construction is identical.
During our visit, after an initial half-mile slog from where we parked, the rains came on. We clambered around regardless, snapped a few photos, and even made our way through the grass to a winding stream or burn. This was it: another house in which John Rae once slept.
At Fort Hope, in the Arctic darkness, Rae learned the meaning of Real Cold. But then he visited some Inuit in a snowhouse they had built. He realized: wait a minute! it’s far warmer in here. He converted on the spot and, nostalgia be damned, never built another stone house. Oh, and one thing more. Next spring, when the Arctic Return Expedition sets out to retrace Rae's route of 1854, the team will visit Fort Hope before striking westward.



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Ken McGoogan
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Orkney delivers venue, book-buyers, and a letter about John Rae's last day

Orkney delivers venue, book-buyers, and a letter about John Rae's last day


Turns out that Orkney was more than ready for me. Wonderful venue, the Orkney Theatre in Kirkwall. Good-sized audience, well-informed. Excellent introduction by my friend Tom Muir. And all those books we brought? Sold every one. I talked about John Rae, the Hall of Clestrain restoration, the Arctic Return Expedition. Had several fun conversations. That special bottle of John Rae whisky I received here a few years back, one of only thirty, is steadily increasing in value. So that's cool.
Oh, and a woman gave me a copy of a letter that Kate Rae, the explorer's Canadian wife, wrote about Rae's last day.  The letter-giver was the great-great-granddaughter of the recipient. Readers of Fatal Passage will recall that I quote the wonderfully expressive Kate Rae near the end of the book.  She and her sister came to Orkney to see the Stromness native buried. From the Kirkwall Hotel, on July 29, 1893, Kate wrote to Major James Barnett of the 1st Orkney Volunteers Artillery.  She remarked on "the great love he had for these islands and the Orkney people, and the many happy years he passed here both in this youth and in maturer years . . . . He was so pleased you had written to remind him [of his previous generosity], and said how active you had always been both in volunteers and boating matters and he said what a good shot you were and he asked me to go myself and get the postal order [for a magazine subscription] and send it to you at once. I scarcely ever left his bedside, but I went at once and got the order and wrote the note beside him and had it posted. It was his last subscription to anything and it seemed to me most suitable for amongst his simple pleasures he loved his boat dearly."
Don't you love gifts like that?
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Ken McGoogan
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Louie Kamookak discovers John Rae's cairn

Louie Kamookak discovers John Rae's cairn



The late Louie Kamookak has rightly been celebrated as a searcher for John Franklin. But more significantly, in my view, Louie was the man who discovered the cairn that explorer John Rae built in 1854, marking the final link in what would prove to be the first navigable Northwest Passage. I touched on that in Dead Reckoning, but I detailed the adventure in Fatal Passage. There, I described how in 1999, from Gjoa Haven, we set out east across Rae Strait in Louie’s twenty-foot motorboat. Quoting now:
During the thump­ing, exhilarating ride across waters so cold that a swimmer would not survive ten minutes, and in which hitting a floating log would mean almost certain death, I scribbled in my notebook, “Incredible to think that I should find not one but two fellow madmen to join me in this lunatic quest.”
Once we had established our camp on the coast of Boothia Penin­sula, our first objective was to find the cairn that Rae built. Fortunately, the explorer not only described the place where he created the marker, but also noted its geographical co-ordinates. Both Cameron Treleaven and Louie Kamookak carried Global Positioning System receivers that draw on globe-girdling satellites to specify locations and distances.
John Rae, of course, had been forced to rely on less sophisticated equipment. Because he was meticulous, his latitude reading, I believed, would be quite precise. But in the mid-1800s, the portable technology to provide accurate longitude readings had yet to be perfected. Indeed, when I checked the map, Rae’s longitude put the cairn far inland, which did not match his description of having travelled north along the coast.
Even so, we headed inland that first morning, roughly northeast, with a view to reaching Rae’s designated point and then heading west along the correct latitude so that we could not possibly miss the cairn. Under a limitless blue sky, we hiked for hour after hour across treeless, rock-strewn tundra, slogging through marshes, scrambling over ridges, and occasionally spotting caribou in the distance. A couple of times, we sighted landmarks that resembled grand cairns on the horizon, but they proved always to be giant rocks.

At about three o’clock in the afternoon, when we arrived at a broad inlet we had hoped to ford, we discovered that at best this would mean wading fifty yards through freezing, fast-flowing, groin-deep water while sinking in rock-filled mud to our knees. Treleaven insisted that we could do it, and maybe he was right. Kamookak wryly observed, “It’s too much work, this Rae stuff.” He and I voted to add a couple of miles to our hike, so instead of fording, we all three walked around.
At 4:30 p.m., we again approached Rae’s latitude, only now we were hiking north along the coast, the three of us strung out eighty yards apart, scouring the landscape. As we approached the tip of the penin­sula that Rae had named Point de la Guiche, Kamookak, who was trav­elling along a ridge, found what looked like the remains of a cairn. Instead of hollering, he simply placed his GPS receiver on the capstone, sat down, and waited for Treleaven and me to join him.
The cairn itself had been dismantled but was still clearly recogniz­able as a human creation, even with its stones covered in yellow and black lichen. Nor was it the kind of cairn, Kamookak explained, that hunters would build to cache game: the builder of this cairn had placed big rocks in the centre on top of smaller ones, a practice that would crush fresh meat. It was the only man-made structure for miles. And the GPS told us that although the longitude of this spot differed from Rae’s by three minutes and thirty-six seconds, the latitude agreed within a few yards. This was indeed Rae’s cairn.
Standing in the wind with open water visible to the west, the north­west, and the northeast, I could see the scene as it had unfolded in the wintry snowscape of early May 1854. A resolute man of forty-one, Rae had led his small party across ice and rough country for over 320 miles, man-haul­ing sledges through blizzards, gale- force winds, and temperatures as low as minus 62 degrees Fahrenheit. All the men suffered from snow-blindness, and one froze two toes. Only Rae and his two hardiest men—the Inuit William Ouligbuck, Jr., and the Cree Thomas Mistegan—reached this spot on the west coast of Boothia Peninsula. . . .
[In 2019, the Arctic Return Expedition intends to retrace Rae’s route and revisit this location.]



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Ken McGoogan
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Bringing John Rae to Robert Burns Country

Bringing John Rae to Robert Burns Country


Next week will find me giving talks in Robert Burns Country. I mentioned previously that, thanks to a new "friendship bridge" extending between the Royal Canadian Geographical Society and the Royal Scottish Geographical Society, I have fallen heir to a whirlwind, four-day speaking tour. Now, in response to popular demand, I can provide details.
My illustrated talk is called Let's Take Back Arctic History: The John Rae Story. I argue that the orthodox or 'official' version of Arctic exploration history focuses almost exclusively on Royal Navy officers, omitting the contributions of Canada's indigenous peoples and fur-trade explorers like the peerless Scottish-Orcadian John Rae. I will draw on my books Fatal Passage and Dead Reckoning, and say a few words about the forthcoming Arctic Return Expedition, which will retrace the route Rae followed on his all-important 1854 trek. If you're in Scotland, you can catch me at 7:30 p.m. as follows. . . .
-- March 26:  Dumfries, Easterbrook Hall.
-- March 27: Galashiels, Scottish Border Campus 
-- March 28: Ayr, Council Chambers, Ayr Town Hall
-- March 29: Helensburgh, Victoria Halls

The connection with Burns is two-fold. The poet was born in a cottage in Alloway, Ayrshire (see painting to the left, which Sheena did after our first visit); and he died and lies buried in Dumfries. Somewhere, I have a photo of me in that town, sitting in his favorite chair in a local pub. But I'll dig that out another time.
[The Burns portrait derives from Alexander Nasmyth.]






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Ken McGoogan
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Let's take back Arctic history in Scotland

Let's take back Arctic history in Scotland


Faithful readers (hi, mom!) will recognize this image of Abbotsford from my book Celtic Lightning.  The historical novelist Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) created this castle-like residence, now a museum, 40 miles south of Edinburgh in the Scottish Borders. Sheena shot the photo a few years ago, when last we visited.
End of March, I have a fighting chance of getting back to Abbotsford, thanks to a new "friendship bridge" that extends between the Royal Canadian Geographical Society and the Royal Scottish Geographical Society.  I have fallen heir to a whirlwind, four-day speaking tour, and one of the places I will visit is Galashiels (see image below), which is three miles from Scott's creation.
My presentation is entitled Let's Take Back Arctic History: The John Rae Story. I argue that the  orthodox or 'official' version of Arctic exploration history focuses almost exclusively on Royal Navy officers, omitting the contributions of Canada's indigenous peoples and fur-trade explorers like that peerless Scottish-Orcadian John Rae.
Those who have read Fatal Passage or Dead Reckoning will know where this is going. Anyway, if you find yourself in Scotland on May 26, 27, 28 or 29, you can catch my song-and-dance, successively, in Dumfries, Galashiels, Ayr, and Helensburgh. No, no, please don't feel obligated to attend in more than one venue, or two at most, and by no means should you make a special trip from Canada -- not unless you are flying on points. Hope to see you in Galashiels!

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Ken McGoogan
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Team set to retrace Rae's 1854 expedition

Team set to retrace Rae's 1854 expedition


























The Arctic Return team is complete. Explorers Hugh Dale-Harris and Garry Tutte round out the four-man party that will set out in April 2019 to retrace John Rae's legendary 1854 expedition. That's the one on which, with William Ouligbuck and Thomas Mistegan, he solved the two great mysteries of 19th-century Arctic exploration, discovering both the tragic fate of the Franklin expedition and the final link in the first navigable Northwest Passage. The two join expedition leader David Reid and flying doctor Andrew Bresnahan in undertaking to ski and slog 650 km across Boothia Peninsula through what promises to be gale-force winds, blowing snow, and bitter cold. Educator Hugh Dale-Harris has traveled more than 8,000 km in the High Arctic by dog team or skijouring, investigating climate change and retracing the routes of Otto Sverdrup and Robert Peary. He has worked with such veteran polar explorers as Will Steger and Matty McNair. Garry Tutte is an award-winning adventure film-maker whose work has taken him through more than 50 countries and from Mount Everest to the Sahara Desert. In 2017, he led the media team aboard the Canada C3 expedition that sailed from Toronto to Victoria via the Northwest Passage. The Arctic Return Expedition will return to the ruins of the cairn that John Rae built overlooking Rae Strait in 1854. The objective is to honor Rae, who has yet to be properly recognized for his achievements, and to raise funds to restore his boyhood home in Orkney, the Hall of Clestrain (painting above by Sheena Fraser McGoogan). The expedition is seeking sponsors and has recently launched a GoFundMe campaign. Check it out . . . and dig deep!


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Ken McGoogan
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View from Alaska highlights indigenous contribution to Arctic discovery

View from Alaska highlights indigenous contribution to Arctic discovery



DAVID JAMES
(Fairbanks Daily News-Miner)
Feb. 25, 2018

FAIRBANKS — For Arctic history enthusiasts, there’s never been a more exciting time. The recent findings of the two lost vessels of the Franklin Expedition, last seen sailing from Greenland in 1845 in search of the Northwest Passage, made global news. Meanwhile, historians have been producing an unending stream of books bringing us new and, in many ways, deeply revised understandings of the era. Keeping up with developments has become nearly impossible.
Thus, we’re at a good point to revisit the entire arc of this history and grapple with the new findings and what they mean, particularly in regards to Sir John Franklin and his men. This is the task Canadian author Ken McGoogan masterfully accomplishes in his newest book, “Dead Reckoning: The Untold Story of the Northwest Passage.”
McGoogan, a highly adept Arctic historian, seeks with this book to lay out the entire story of efforts of finding the Passage, from the 16th century to Roald Amundsen’s first navigation of it early in the 20th century, as well as the recovery of Franklin’s ships in the 21st.
In digging through the many nautical and overland journeys undertaken by Europeans, McGoogan explains, a common theme emerged. Native peoples, especially the Inuit, were often the heroes who saved expeditions that would otherwise have come to ruin. Of equal importance was how various explorers interacted with Natives. Those who observed and learned from the region’s inhabitants and adopted their methods generally succeeded in their efforts. Others, convinced that European technology and knowledge were inherently superior to local wisdom, often didn’t.
Martin Frobisher was the first to seek the Northwest Passage, setting out from Britain in 1576. The English merchants who financed his journey were seeking a shortcut to Asia. Over the next three centuries locating that route would be an objective pursued by many. McGoogan recounts this trip, as well as other early explorations, including that of the ill-fated Henry Hudson, namesake of Hudson Bay.
For nearly 250 years, exploration of the region was driven by the fur trade, with the search for the Passage a secondary concern. McGoogan documents the importance of Native guides and assistants who were crucial to the success of the Hudson’s Bay Company. Among them was Thanadelthur, a multilingual Chipewyan woman who served as a de facto diplomat, and Dene leader Matonabbe, who guided Samuel Hearne, the first European to reach Canada’s Arctic coast.
The British Admiralty took up the cause of discovering the Passage early in the 19th century, throwing a nearly endless supply of men and money at the objective in the following decades. In 1845, after a handful of previous attempts, the Franklin Expedition was sent forth with two modern ships, 129 men, and absolute confidence of success. They headed north of Canada and vanished. From the few bones later found it became apparent that the last survivors resorted to cannibalism in their final desperate days.
It’s here that the recent locating of the ships has drastically altered what is believed to have happened. But as McGoogan highlights, if more value had been placed on Inuit reports than on one hastily scribbled note, we would have known sooner both where the ships were and what befell the men.
The narrative that held for a century and a half was that the ships were iced in off the northwest coast of King William Island. Franklin and several others died on board. The rest abandoned the ships in 1848 and headed south, hoping to reach Hudson Bay. They starved to death before ever coming close.
This theory was based on the one written document ever found, a note detailing the plan that was recovered by Leopold McClintock in 1859. The problem is, it contradicts what Inuit in the region told searchers. They spoke of the ships moving further south, of boarding them and discovering at least one corpse, and of accidentally sinking one ship themselves in Queen Maud Gulf, southwest of King William Island.
This information was initially gathered by John Rae, who was mapping the Arctic coast in 1854 and happened upon a group of Inuit who told him these stories. They reported that at least some of the men were still alive as late as 1850, and also provided the first accounts of cannibalism.
McGoogan hails Rae as the greatest of British Arctic explorers, noting that more than any others — especially the obstinate Franklin — Rae fully embraced Native ways. He carefully learned from everyone he met along his overland travels and thrived where Franklin’s men died. Yet history turned on him. Victorian England, buoyed by Franklin’s widow Jane, refused to believe good British sailors would resort to eating each other. Rae was disgraced. McClintock was credited with learning the expedition’s fate. For the next 150 years searches for the vessels focused on where the note was found.
Then in 2014, one of the shipwrecks, the Erebus, was discovered submerged in Queen Maud Gulf. The other, the Terror, was located in Terror Bay off southwestern King William Island. They were both exactly where the Inuit had told Rae they were.
This changes the story dramatically. McGoogan writes that it’s now believed some of the survivors re-boarded the ships and made another effort at pushing through. The sailors’ demises appear to have been far more drawn out and complicated than long believed. Searches of the wrecks will hopefully shed additional light.
There is far more in this book than just a revision of the Franklin calamity. McGoogan covers numerous voyages, some well known, others largely forgotten, always with an eye on the role Natives played. Summarizing Hearne’s successful early explorations, McGoogan writes, “Europeans would be wise to apprentice themselves to the Native peoples who had lived there for centuries — a strategy that eluded many who followed.”
Most importantly, McGoogan shows how the search for the Northwest Passage isn’t just a part of European history. It’s equally a part of Inuit history. While plenty more is found here, this long overdue recognition is his book’s most significant accomplishment.
(To read as printed in the newspaper click here.)

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Ken McGoogan
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Before turning mainly to books about arctic exploration and Canadian history, Ken McGoogan worked for two decades as a journalist at major dailies in Toronto, Calgary, and Montreal. He teaches creative nonfiction writing through the University of Toronto and in the MFA program at King’s College in Halifax. Ken served as chair of the Public Lending Right Commission, has written recently for Canada’s History, Canadian Geographic, and Maclean’s, and sails with Adventure Canada as a resource historian. Based in Toronto, he has given talks and presentations across Canada, from Dawson City to Dartmouth, and in places as different as Edinburgh, Melbourne, and Hobart.